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Judd’s Marfa / Chinati Foundation

Smack in the absolute middle of nowhere, along a solitary country road near Big Bend in the extreme west of Texas is the oasis of Marfa: population 1,981. The stuff of myth in artistic circles, the town was just like any other dying agricultural outpost until Donald Judd set up shop in the early 1970’s. He brought with him a singular vision and a cadre of extremely talented artists to create, on an uninterrupted scale that would have been almost impossible elsewhere. Despite its continued isolation, Judd’s vision evolved into a vibrant community (on which his mark is still thankfully conspicuous) that remains quite unlike anywhere else on the planet.


We talked last week about its most recognizable landmark, Prada Marfa (which actually sits several miles northwest of the town itself), but the place is much, much more than merely a gigantic display case for Judd’s art: it is a frontier town, both literally and artistically, with several boundary pushing artist-in-residency programs (we heard someone mention that the French government will begin sponsoring one soon), innovative galleries and an impressive food scene for its minuscule size. The city as a whole has an oddly otherworldly quality to it: well-preserved old signs indicating long-gone buildings purposefully dot its main street, gleaming galleries stand alongside decaying old structures, and shiny classic cars stylishly hum down streets alongside fat-tired bicycles. And among millions of visible stars, the inexplicable Marfa Lights can be seen from an observation point a few miles outside the city drifting across the night skies.


The majority of Judd’s work in Marfa is housed in a sprawling ex-military complex, which is the main outpost of the artist’s Chinati Foundation. It is here that Judd’s most impressive works are housed, including 100 Untitled Works in Mill Aluminum, a stark and sweeping meditation on difference, uniformity, complexity and the tenuousness of outward appearance.


Dan Flavin’s works in fluorescent light, which play brilliantly with colour psychology and their disorienting context, occupy six separate military barracks. In their midst is a Oldenburg & Van Bruggen sculpture, and the foundation also houses large-scale works from the likes of Carl Andre, Roni Horn, John Wesley, and Ingólfur Arnarsson. Chinati’s annex in the city’s centre, additionally, houses a large collection of Chamberlain’s emotionally charged scrap metal sculptures. The place is nothing short of a spiritual experience.

And in addition to the phenomenal collection at Chinati, there is also the Ayn Foundation, which houses a Warhol or two, as well as several other excellent galleries. And Marfa’s population is surprisingly urbane, yet is possessed of an endearing small-town sensibility and size: you can bicycle from end to end of the town in five minutes.


The city’s few restaurants are fantastic, with some notables being Jett’s inside Hotel Paisano, Squeeze, a very Swiss café with great breakfast, The Miniature Rooster which serves a delightful mix of southern USA comfort food and Indian fare alongside a long list of beers, and Cochineal, which has a fantastic ambience and simple, fresh food. The now iconic Food Shark truck makes an appearance at lunch time, and serves up some of the best falafel creations we’ve ever tried. And the town’s Thunderbird Hotel is a nifty, design savvy update on an old American motel, with gorgeous rooms, a typewriter rental service (!!!), phonographs and a big collection of vinyl albums for its guests, a sun-drenched pool and bicycle rental.
This town of makers, aesthetes, craftspeople and adventurers is assuredly unlike anywhere you’ve ever been. And it is, unequivocally, a place you must add to your must-visit list.

Tag Christof – Photos by Tag Christof and Jamie Ho for The Blogazine