14/05/2012

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The Future of Indian Fashion

Forecasts talking about Asia as the emerging fashion area and a booming luxury market have had the industry eyes pointed east for quite a while, and over the past years India has become a burning topic in the discussion. It has been a discussion that’s now starting to cool off; the progress isn’t as fast as expected, cultural differences are putting spanners in the works and influential names coming back west are saying that the Indian fashion scene isn’t happening, yet. In New Delhi – the city where opposites collide with an immense energy, the avenues are lined with chauffeur-driven cars, and local star design costs as much as Parisian couture – the Blogazine met with Creative Marketing and PR Consultant Anubhav Jain to talk about the future of Indian fashion.


Fashion, beauty and splendour have throughout the history been a crucial part of Indian culture, and for long the high-end products were reserved for a selected few. “The ‘maharajas’ [royalties] started the trend of luxury! We have a history of royals and jewels, that is our roots and it’s foremost where our fashion inspiration comes from,” says Jain. “Though, now the country is a part of the globalized world and we find sources of inspiration also from the Western part, especially in terms of detailing and quality,” he continues.

The main focus for the Indian fashion industry is growth and even though the business has witnessed a steady rise of attention from international stakeholders and fashion voices, the numbers are small when compared to the horde of buyers and brands represented during the major fashion weeks in London, Paris, Milan and New York. “As the Indian customer is becoming more brand conscious, it becomes imperative to further recognize the importance of craftsmanship, its value, and the value of its price to the customers,” Jain comments. He talks about the pricing levels as a big factor affecting the luxury market, where the ‘boom’ of attention for high end companies entering India principally relates to the brand names rather than generating in sales and profits. Taxes and import duties have reduced the saleability of luxury, and even though the ‘local socialite’ can afford the high end products, it’s a question of how these couture garments are worn. Jain means that if the brand doesn’t have a well-known and luxurious image, or if it hasn’t been seen on models, actors, politicians or other socially high ranked personalities, the company will have a much harder time getting through to their target clients in India.

Though, after some years along the line, now the luxury brands are really pushing it hard in India. The industry has been experiencing a great transformation through social media, fashion bloggers and e-commerce. “Yes, e-commerce in retail and on the high end will be the next big thing here,” Anubhav Jain confirms. He talks about fashion communication inspired by the Western ‘model’ as an important point to boost versatility and means that in a country like India, where various cultures and languages have to get along with each other, the fashion industry and its ‘language’ through garments, colours and trends is what binds them all together. Even though the country is becoming more liberal culturally, the ‘crazy fashion outfits’ that you would not only see during fashion weeks but on an everyday street in London, Paris, Milan or New York is not what you would come across even at the most fashionable event in Mumbai or New Delhi. “People are still rather reserved even though the market is opening up for new styles.”

When turning the conversation to a talk about the point where Indian fashion is directed towards the industry around, Jain thinks that it might be these various cultures, traditions and the history that the country holds that fascinates the western world. “They get influenced from our bright colours and textiles. The European preferences are often in the range of black, grey, navy and brown, but we feel there is a big demand of colours in the European market, and we could supply the Indian fashion products.” Even though the increasing number of international buyers who attend the Indian fashion events demonstrates that there are expectations on the country, the number of actual business that is carried out over the boarders are lower than one could hope, when talking about the American and European markets. Buyers are intrigued to take in the collections, and Indian top designers are chasing foreign markets. A big part of the Indian design generates trading with nearby markets such as the Middle East, where the aesthetics and the style preferences are more similar to begin with. Though, young artists come with young minds, and while the markets are slowly moving closer and finding inspiration within each other, many designers are still longing for the shot in the west.

The industry eye might have taken a minor break from the close watch on India, but with e-commerce companies making an effort to enter the market- as well as Indian e-commerce doing the same towards the world and with social media and fashion blogging on the rise- the reasons for going back to India might become additional, sooner than expected.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Image courtesy Lakmé Fashion Week

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09/05/2012

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The First Note On The Horn – Ichigo-Ichie

Welcome to the second part of The First Note On The Horn series from the sizzling music scene of Tokyo. Ai Mitsuda takes us to the backstage with Kuni, the talented trumpetist of Sly Mongoose. Read the first part of the story Tokyo Burning here and the second part The Misty Urban Rain here

Ichigo-Ichie is a Japanese old saying derived from Zen Buddhism, which literary means One time, one encounter; Cherish this very moment, for the same stream will never cross again, may the encounter be fulfilled with the wholehearted gratitude, for it will never happen the same again.

“A vast amount of human energy and soul has lost in a moment.”

Kuni recalled the 3.11 disaster in Japan. “I’ve always believed in Ichigo-Ichie, but that day was an intense moment to realize it. Maybe we meet again and spend more time together, but maybe not, this time could be really the last time.” Kuni told that he has a lot to be thankful for in his life, and meeting different people is the most important one of them all.

For him, Terence Blanchard has always been a wonderful source of inspiration and a precious presence as a person. To begin his new life in New York after graduation, Kuni went to see Terence Blanchard Quintet at Village Vanguard one night.

“How you gonna survive?” Terence had asked him. “Well, I’ve just arrived in the city, I don’t know yet…” He couldn’t provide a better answer.

Two weeks later, when Kuni came back home, his roommate handed him a phone slip. “Do you know a lady, named Robin?” “Of course,” Kuni had answered. “Robin, she is the manager of Terence!” What a beautiful surprise it had been, a warm welcome to join Terence’s team as his assistant. “I was deeply moved, surprised and got a little nervous to be honest, you know.” Kuni continued, “Everyone knows how hard time Terence would spend to evolve into a new stage of creation, I deeply respect Terence as an artist, most important thing is, I learned so much about life itself while being with him. I remember, once we were at The Manhattan Center recording a film score, Terence was making sure that he saw various kind of nationalities in the ensemble. He’s always mindful about these things, always open to listen to people. He makes his statements simple and direct but you can feel his warm and profound heart right there. His music really reflects his way of being, I just love the way his harmony goes.”

‘Be Who You Are’ : it was a simple but a strong message from Terence. Since the question of doing Jazz as a Japanese started smoldering in his mind, consciously or unconsciously, Kuni has been on the road. “Before being a Japanese, I am Kuni myself. It’s quite simple but important for me. I was brought up in circumstances where Jazz was very close. I had a warm and close feeling about its culture, and it was quite natural for me to step into it. But first, there’s Jazz as a cultural heritage and I wanted to learn and pay full respect to its history as much as possible. In general, I have always believed in the trees standing on their roots, leaves are not just accessories.”

“Now, I feel like doing simply music, through my one and only eyes.”

And it seems it doesn’t have to be categorized into one specific genre of music. In Kuni’s gorgeous nomadic piece called nebula (from the album of Sly Mongoose, Mystic Daddy, 2009), as the first note on the horn echoes, every instrument starts playing with its different meter, some goes in three-four, some in two-four, some in five-four, shaping an unformed cloud of dust, diffusing haunting refrain in the air, moment after moment.

Why not getting lost in this floating cloud for a while.

Ai Mitsuda – Image 1 with Terence Blanchard, at The Manhattan Center, New York City, 1994; 3 his trumpet is his own ‘voice’, courtesy of Kuni.

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30/04/2012

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Kurdish Stockholm Electro by Zhala

Zhala Rifat is the most recent act to emerge from the Stockholm electro-scene. After having been the back-up girl to Lykke Li during her American and European tour, she’s about to drop her first album during the year. But Zhala isn’t a newcomer in the industry. Already In 1998, at the age of 11, she was nominated for a Swedish Grammis Award along with composer Klas Widén. However, the release date of her album debut is still, after 1,5 years of production, yet to be set.

“I already have many songs recorded, but I’m not sure how I want to put together the album, I’ll take my time. Since you only get to make one debut album I have to make sure I spend enough time on it. Lately, I’ve just been trying to get all the melodies and sounds in my head into songs.”

The Rifat family is of Kurdish-descent, thus; Zhala was raised to the sounds of Kurdistan, a heritage that is very much present in her own tunes.

“Kurdish music has a very repetitive rhythm. I grew up with kurdish music so its a very natural part of me now. I love the feeling kurdish music brings, and the melodies, more than the texture, it feels like techno!”

The other week, her first video was released – “Slippin’ around”. Any efforts of trying to refer the visuals to anything else in popular culture would be somewhat redundant, unless you go for the “Björk circa Volta”-card. The video features Zhala herself as a mix between a surrealistic Middle Eastern-geisha and a Hindu-goddess, and was directed by Makode Linde, the artist which stirred quite a scandal with his anti-racist “Painful cake”-exhibition at Moderna Museet in Stockholm last week during World Art Day.

“I love cake! Makode really understands me and my music, he can express it visually. I try to mirror my experiences with sound, and my experiences are unique. And there’s a reason why he’s the world’s most talked about artist at the moment…”

At the moment, Zhala is busy performing, recording and booking gigs for the summer festivals, and still makes time to organize the lesbian club Donna Scam once in a while. Rumour has it that we haven’t seen the last of this woman.

“The greatest memory I have of performing is at Gagnef-festival in Sweden, performing with my friend Shamoun a couple of years ago. We had a big loving party on stage and I think everyone was peaking at that point. I’ve been practicing music in different ways since forever. The music always takes different forms, that’s just a natural part of my development.”

Petsy von Köhler – photo courtesy of Zhala Zhino Rifat

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24/04/2012

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Guest Interview n° 40: KALDA

Undemanding but slightly seductive. The garments by London based brand KALDA are fashioned with a lot of realism while combining contrasting elements to bring out an individual touch. KALDA is the creation of sisters Katrin Alda and Rebekka Rafnsdottir, originate from Iceland. The Blogazine caught up with Katrin, who is also the one heading the design, to talk about the inspiration, the style, and London Fashion Week.

KALDA started out as a few pieces project to sell in your concept store, Einvera, back in Reykjavík. Was the objective with the store to be a first step for the brand?
No, not really, the whole thing kind of just happened, almost accidentally, but in the best possible way. I had known for some time that I wanted to have my own brand but it was not done in a strategic way. The shop first started in the basement of our home and then evolved to what it is today.

AW12 is your third full collection. How has the aesthetics of the garments evolved over time?
For me personally AW12 is the collection where it all came together and made sense. I think the aesthetics are pretty much the same, especially for the stranger’s eye, but something changed with me personally in this collection.

KALDA is a lot about contrasts and opposites, in the same time as the style is very free and easy going. How is the creating process looking?
The creative process is very intuitive, some base idea comes along and that will be the starting point; normally it is about fabrics. I love the idea of combining different aspects in every single garment. The objective is always to create something realistic and individual.

For your SS12 campaign you worked with the Swedish model Caroline Winberg. Do you wish to keep a Scandinavian touch to the brand?
No, not consciously at least. We had gotten to know Caroline through a friend and as she is one of the hottest women I’ve seen, we had to ask her to work with us!

Your campaigns are a mix of laid back, chic and rock n’ roll. Is this how you would describe the attitude of the brand?
Yes, we create the images to give our costumers an idea of what we are about. We are lucky to work with photographer Silja Magg on our shoots and she really understands the brand identity.

You started out in Reykjavík but have along the road relocated to London. What elements of inspiration have you taken with you from Iceland?
I think growing up there has definitely shaped my aesthetics in ways I am not really aware of. Rebekka and I grew up in a town of 300 people and spent all day every day outside in the nature. Also our team comes mostly from Iceland and they are a great source of inspiration. We just appointed a new Creative Director, Regina Rourke, who is an Icelandic artist so we are very happy with our roots!

Your collection is sold through the iconic London store, Liberty. Do you have any other favourite stores in London, or back in Reykjavík?
I have always thought of Liberty as my favourite store, even more after they picked us up and I’ve gotten to know the way they run their business. Otherwise Natalie Massenet is someone who I think is a great inspiration for young professionals due to her self-believe attitude; Net-A-Porter is one of the best in the business.

From a business point of view it must be easier to be in the midst of it, in an acknowledged fashion city, than on a somewhat isolated island. Was this your main reason for moving the company?
I studied in London and got to know the fashion industry quite well while living here. I think London offers one of the best support systems for young designers in the world and I always knew I wanted to be a part of that. It is very important for me to surround myself with the best to push myself further.

And the plans for the future… What is the next step for KALDA? London Fashion Week perhaps?
Yes, loads of plans! We are just setting up our studio in London now and getting more people involved, which is very joyful! We are also planning an event for LFW in September, which we are all very excited for.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Image courtesy of KALDA  

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12/04/2012

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Guest Interview n° 39: Paul Holdengraber 2/2

Last week we kicked off the first part of a lengthy conversation with Paul Holdengraber, the New York Public Library’s dexterous Director of Public Events. A master conversationalist, Holdengraber continues to redefine the role of public discourse with his program “LIVE from the NYPL” and, more recently, The Paul Holdengraber Show. Conversations can run the gamut from pre-war Vienna and psychoanalysis (with Eric Kandel) to Americana, Poppers and Johnny Mathis (with John Waters). He’s held court with the likes of Chris Blackwell, William Kentridge, and Javier Marías; upcoming talks include Van Cliburn, Jesmyn Ward, and Slavoj Zizek.

See upcoming events from LIVE From the NYPL here. Watch The Paul Holdengraber show here.

Below is Part II of Holdengraber’s conversation with 2DM’s Lane Koivu. Read Part I here.

You think that tradition [of oratory discussion] is dwindling for my generation?
Well you are substantially younger than I am, but I partake in part of your generation in part I suspect, because I have a little machine of torture sitting there, and we’re all in the city walking around as if praying in front of some wall with this machine and people are constantly―though not that much, considering how much they do it―bumping into each other. But when you walk around the city all you see is people with their Blackberrys. Wherever they are―in restaurants―carrying on a romance or a conversation while sitting next to somebody. I think all of that maybe lessens the art of conversation.

Do you think information is lessened? Or do you think it’s for nothing?
I don’t know exactly.

Let’s talk about your research process.
It’s a mixture of many things. Just as you came in here I was with my research assistant. I have a research assistant who helps me greatly. Anthony.

But basically I spend an enormous amount of time reading. As much time as I possibly can thinking about [the subject]. And then I construct in my mind the arc of the conversation. What I like to talk about is an organized web of obsessions. Just before you came in, Anthony said “Where do you think you’ll start?” And I said, “I think in this particular place, we’ll start square in center, with Vienna that he left at age 11, and the Vienna that my father, who’s 93 years old, both my parents are Viennese and left Vienna to spend the war years in Haiti, where my father left after his second year of medicine. And what promises Vienna still offers us as today a model for knowledge, and what was destroyed with the assassination and destruction of the Viennese and other Jews in Europe. I think I want to make it rather personal at that moment and bring my own body into the conversation. I’m not an impartial interviewer. I bring my own personality and sense of self into it. When you came to Werner I wasn’t absent, I was there. Hopefully I didn’t interrupt him but brought to the conversation my own experience. Some things I didn’t know. I don’t know about linear B, I don’t know what he was talking about.

But you manage steer it back to the focal point of the conversation.
Well, I try.

It can’t be easy with someone like Werner Herzog.
Unless you’re in Iceland for five hours. So the preparation is very important. It’s a bit like theatre in that there’s so much more behind the scenes. I had 120 clips and images ready for Werner. I had what he taught me, which is: Never give names, only give numbers. 17, 12, 19, 55, so that any people can get the clip right. Because also―like you―when you talk to someone you don’t want to constantly be in your notes. But you’re going to need some things.

That’s what I noticed watching you: you never look down.
Very little. As little as possible. The goal is to arrive on stage with nothing. When I grow up, that’s what I’d like. But as little as possible. With John Waters, that was just… he was so wonderful. There another case. I just fell in love with the book. It was like Patti Smith’s. Reading “Just Kids” or reading “Role Models”, I just love it.

With “Role Models”, it’s very conversational writing. It’s almost as if he’s in the room. And the way he brought up Leslie Van Houtan and the Manson murders.
Oh, God! Yeah. It’s amazing that you remind me of that, because in a way he tests the limits of empathy. He manages to make you understand a person so dissimilar from you. Which is not unlike my fascination for someone like Jay-Z. I mean, what do I know? I know nothing about hip-hop. But somehow “Decoded” got me to understand a world I didn’t know. I never listened to hip-hop until very recently. In the fall I interview Peter Townshend. So what do I know about that world? Nothing. But I’ll discover everything. And what a joy. So I always say, using the line of a famous Italian historian named Carlo Ginzburg, he always says that he approaches his subjects with a euphoria of ignorance. That’s exactly it: you know very little and then it becomes euphoric just to learn about it.

So each time I approach a subject with as many possible tools for understanding what it is the writer, filmmaker or musician wants to express. And I put myself in the position of you, the audience. What do you want to know? You try as you close your eyes the night before in a sheer utter panic and anxiety, because I feel it each and every time. People say, “Oh, it must be so easy.” Are you kidding? It’s terribly difficult. Consider this person here, Eric Kandel, 82 years old, a Nobel Prize. Well, he’s talking to me. What do I know? Speaking to Harry Belafonte. He is a man whose work’s behind him. Not that he doesn’t have enormous work in front of him. But such an incredible life, such an incredible story. What do people want to know? What are the claims on his story that we want to bring out?

You possess an endless curiosity that is central to your work.
Yes, the more interests we have the more interesting we are.

You often say, “Digression is the sunshine of narrative.”
Yeah, it’s sort of my favorite line, I never can’t use it. I’ve said it many times because it’s certainly the way my mind works. When we start to talk, things fall out of our pocket. We talk and the sheer power of continuity and serendipity enliven a conversation. You go by many roads to arrive at some point. The side road, the back road, is often so much more interesting than just straight on.

Are you more concerned with a conversations end, or just the beginning?
The arc of the conversation when I think of it is the beginning and the end. I knew where I started with Werner, and I knew where we would end. And Werner loves endings, so you may have noticed that he nearly got up. He doesn’t want anything beyond that. He knows that we’ll take it up again. I try not to go beyond two hours. [Pulls out a metal stopwatch] I always have this on the table next to me. Always. And about ten minutes before the two hours, I might say something like “In closing,” just to give the audience a sense of relieve that they can go and have dinner. And you also need to leave people hungry.

When you construct a conversation, is it all in your head?
What I’m trying to figure out between now and Wednesday is, “What is the thread?” So I can’t quite say. The process is hard to answer, because it’s a mixture of taking notes, of course. I do believe there’s a relationship between one’s head and one’s brain. I do write by hand, and with a fountain pen.

You don’t write on the computer?
I mainly take notes. And then I try to dissociate myself from them, not to have them too much. Another way of putting it would be, I try not to be too worried. Or perhaps not to be worried at all by the next question. You know, here you are in my situation. You know, “Holdengraber’s going to finish saying something, what do I ask him?”

Yes!
You know that situation―I know that situation. It’s an uncomfortable one when it’s predominant and when it dominates. Partly because when you have this great tool here you don’t have to be too worried that you miss something because it’s there. But in a live conversation there ain’t nothing, except my mother’s favorite comment: two ears, one mouth. The only thing you have is to listen to the person. So when I talk about the arc I try to relax; well, I don’t relax at all I’m completely on edge, but I try to be as porous as possible, and not let the anxiety get in the way of dictating what it is I need to move on to. And also not to be too afraid, and that’s really hard.

Are you thinking of your audience?
I’m trying to forget them, and in the good conversations they’re no longer there. You saw with Werner, it’s very palpable. But I don’t want this relationship of distancing, I want to be as close with someone else as I can and talk to them. You and me, we could have done this interview over the phone, and I’ve done plenty of interviews over the phone, but I think there’s a difference.

I wanted to ask you about influences, but I think that could take a lifetime to sort through.
Partly, I will say that I was brought up in a culture of conversation and dialogue. A lot of it happened around the kitchen table arguing with my parents. My parents together now are 180 years old―93 and 87. And I grew up in a world where ideas and trying to sustain an argument was important. And so I think the influence came from that world in no small part. From a world where what mattered is also the stories you could tell. Among world literature there’s so many things. I find myself so catholic in my tastes, and they go all over the place now. As I grow older I am more and more interested in things that people might have discovered when they were very young. The fact that I discovered Patti Smith when I’m 51 when most people listened to her when they were fifteen. At least now since I turned 52 I can look 25. I’m catching up very quickly.

What’s a day in the life of the NYPL Director of Public Programs?
It varies so much. It’s a mixture of discovering what is new and worthwhile, a mixture of reading and preparing for an event, of listening to something that has come my way, like talking to the city of Geneva and talking to Harry Belafonte and then seeing if I can make an arrangement to meet so and so; organizing a trip to go to France to visit Claude Lanzmann, to coming back from a board meeting from a Sun Valley Writer’s Conference, which I just did. It’s so many different things, and speaking to so many different people. It’s never predictable, there are no two days are ever the same. But it is very idea-driven, it’s very much, even like the conversation we have now, it’s the substance of what I’m trying to accomplish. I’m always in the mixture of thinking, who I can pair with who. If I do this, when will I do it, who will I bring, would it be exciting to do events that are more scientifically inclined? Conversation begets conversation. I’m constantly on the go of talking. I spend a lot of time talking.

It suits you well.
It would seem. Even with my cold, I am still able to talk my way through a day.

Lane Koivu – Images Jori Klein

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05/04/2012

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Meeting Tim Coppens

Another time around, Tim Coppens created some hard-earned murmur about the eponymous brand during New York Fashion Week. With references drawn from the film ‘Drive’, tailoring marked by extreme care in details and a color palette adding sophistication to the otherwise dynamic and slightly aggressive aesthetics, Coppens presented his third menswear collection, FASTER, for Fall/Winter 2012/13. His image of the modern man goes beyond the classical structure for menswear. “I don’t think there is one specific clothing that fits every man”, the designer said when the Blogazine caught him for a quick chat somewhere between New York and Belgium.

In your F/W12 presentation, details from motocross and ice hockey gear had a strong influence on the details and athleticism is reflected in your collections. What is your personal relation to sports?
I grew up riding BMX and skateboarding and did that for about 14 years. The reason why I went to certain cities with friends was to skateboard and find the best spots. The last couple of years I have been into long distance running and cycling. I am attracted to individual sports where it’s more about going further and further, getting to know your limits. For me it’s a really good way to think and structure ideas. I’m not a big fan of group sports but I do like sports like ice hockey, rugby and American football where it’s more about the warrior athlete dressing up in battle gear getting ready to defeat the other team. The dress code and the protective armor are really interesting objects.

Does any specific type of music or places inspire you in your work?
I listen to a lot of music. But I also notice that I filter a lot more than I used to do, and doing that I also realize that I go back to the old records that I bought and loved to listen to, whether it’s Kenny Larkin or the Screaming Trees. I don’t have a favourite band. Places and music are connected.

The Fall 2012/13 collection is beautifully composed with the materials complementing each other and the meticulously worked-over details catching the eye. “I like compact materials, whether they are cottons or wool, et cetera”, Coppens said when we talked about what combinations of materials her prefers to work with. When talking about Tim Coppens, it is impossible to not speak of colors. His previous collections have been noted for some of the graphical elements that we don’t see for Fall. Instead we find the continuous subtle feeling of color blocking, given some extra vivacity through a few well-placed dashes of bright blue. The collection, which is described to have an aggressive edge and is very masculine and active, yet have a sophisticated side to it. We asked Mr Coppens if this somehow reflects on how he sees the ‘Tim Coppens man’: “I think so, yes. The masculine and sophisticated edge is something that is really important to me. Although, I have noticed that a lot of women like wearing my bomber jackets.”

Coppens, who was born in Belgium, graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerpen, and 2012 he is being noted as best new menswear designer of the year with the Ecco Domani award. Antwerpen and New York are both renowned fashion cities and the home of several noteworthy designers. Today he has chosen to live in New York, where he, as previous mentioned, also shows during Fashion Week. “I prefer spending my time in New York because it’s home for now. But I do like going back to Belgium from time to time.”

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe with a special Thank You to Tim Coppens

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04/04/2012

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A Flower Opening At Dawn In Singapore

It was a sunny muggy morning, Aya Sekine, well recognized as most swinging, passionate and eclectic Jazz pianist in the region, brought us to her neighborhood, a quiet and hidden district just around the corner from the bustling Orchard Road, where an overnight closed-road runway has appeared most recently with over 150 models to showcase big fashion brands during a fashion festival. In March, Singapore was filled with cultural festivals.

One of the best annual music events in South East Asia, Mosaic Music Festival was also held at Esplanade- Theatres On The Bay, which is Singapore’s national performance arts venue and a non-profit organization. Aya has been invited since its very first year in 2005 and this year she lead her Straight Ahead Quartet including celebrated bassist Christy Smith. Under a slow electric fan, mixed languages spoken in the air as our morning BGM, we had a local Malaysian breakfast Mee Siam, spicy rice vermicelli in curry. Shortly after, in a cafe across the street, we were having a cup of delightfully brewed organic coffee and gluten/wheat-free pancakes with strawberries, bananas and organic raw honey with a scoop of vegan ice-cream.

“Singapore is literally Rojak [a traditional fruit and vegetable salad dish you mix and serve yourself.]” Aya gave us a wink slyly.

Born in Japan, Aya spent half of her childhood in Singapore. She moved to further her study of Jazz piano and improvisation at Berklee College of Music. After spending eight years in New York City, she returned to her second home Singapore with an invitation as the resident pianist of a popular Jazz club around that time. Since then, she has been generating a powerful magnetic field in the live music landscape of Singapore through her performances in various important venues such as INK Club Bar at Fairmont Hotel, Club L’Opera, bar at The Sultan Hotel and especially at Blu Jaz Café where she opened up their music scene through her music project Ayaschool since 2006.

“Blu Jaz Café was the very first place in Singapore where I found Janis Joplin played at that time. I popped in and met Aileen, the owner. After a short while, we had a little meeting and got good vibes immediately enough to go and buy a new drum set the very next day! That’s how it started.”

Aya insists to make a different selection of musicians each time. Even during the sessions, she is opened to welcome potential and motivated young talents. We often witnessed rather interesting mix of audience such as well dressed hotel guests, music lovers, young musicians even students with their instruments gathering all together, getting into the whole ambience, which would rarely happens in big cities these days.“Ayaschool is like an experimental cuisine, making something special out from whatever is in the fridge. So it could be mix of Jazz, Hip hop, Soul, Funk Rock, Brazilian music… We never know how it is going to be, sometimes a great success, sometimes a total disaster… like real life!”

“People tend to compare and complain that we’re rather short of music resources and talents etc… perhaps there’s something to that. But it’s totally nonsense if we start to compare the music scenes here and those in New York City for example. We’re now at the very stage of sowing seeds, nothing is established yet.” A sudden squall came and Aya was radiating her simple, humble, energetic spirit. “I don’t take it as immaturity. Rather ‘Yet’ is good because I believe it’s a great advantage, a great potential and freedom to let something born out of a very simple point.”


AYA SEKINE’S MUST-SEE-PLACES IN SINGAPORE

Real Food (cafe, grocer, books)
“Who are we? We are indie. Real Food is self-run by a team of passionate and stubborn individuals who believe we are what we eat.” 110 Killiney Road Singapore 239549 T: +65 67379516

Blu Jaz Cafe (cafe, live music)
11 Bali Lane Singapore 189848 Tel: +65 62923800

Ayaschool on Saturdays.

Mystic Masseur Hama-san (massage therapy)
The owner’s “Magic-Hands” never stop inspiring people to fly over from overseas only for the purpose of receiving his therapy based on Shiatsu. His treatments cannot be fixed in a certain sort of menu. Simple and spontaneous, he feels and sees through his clients emotions real time and figures out which body work is in need. #01-89 Lucky Plaza 304 Orchard Road Singapore 238863 Tel: +65 62355911

Ai Mitsuda – Graffiti on the wall by (c) Didier Jaba Mathieu 2012

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02/04/2012

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Guest Interview n° 39: Paul Holdengraber

You know you’ve made it when Paul Holdengraber asks to speak with you. An ever-curious intellectual with a quick tongue and wry sense of humor, the New York Public Library’s Director of Public Events has through the years worked to establish himself as the renaissance man of public discourse. With “LIVE from the NYPL” he’s created a world in which the most forward minds of our time to talk about, well, you name it: literature, art, the death penalty, psychoanalysis, whether or not the 20th century was a mistake, the founding of Def Jam Records, the role of God today, Vienna in 1900. His goal, he says, is simply “to make the lion’s roar and shake the foundations of this massive institution.” If only our Congress had people like him.

Before coming to New York Holdengraber was the founder and director of the Institute for Art and Cultures at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, and since joining the Library in 2004 he’s held court with heavyweights like Christopher Hitchens, John Waters, Brian Eno, Errol Morris, Paul Auster, Jay-Z, David Chang, Norman Mailer, Bill Clinton, Al Sharpton, and Werner Herzog. A master of conversation, he believes―like Laurence Stern before him―that sunshine is the digression of narrative, and his interviews are applauded for deviating from the road well-traveled into deep and unfamiliar corners of the mind.

Last January he kicked off The Paul Holdengraber Show, a thirty minute program that finds him debating with the likes of David Chang, Elizabeth Gilbert, and Colum McCann. As always with him, there are many more people to come, many more subjects to explore. 2DM met up with Paul at the NYPL recently to talk about his work, the role of libraries, and why everyone should be reading at least twenty-eight hours a day.

See upcoming events from LIVE From the NYPL here. Watch The Paul Holdengraber show here.

I recently came to Werner Herzog, and you two spoke as if you’d known each other your entire lives.
Yes. We’ve spoken five times and each and every time it’s a wonderful occasion for me. It’s a great discovery, the way he fulfills every thing I hope for in a conversation: To be surprised and taking on territory that is new. To provide what he believes is culture is all about. You know, his definition of culture is incredible. He says: “Culture is a collective agitation of the mind.” And that’s what, hopefully, in conversations such as the ones we have done, is that it gets people excited about thinking, about wondering what it feels like to have ideas. Was that the first time you saw Werner Herzog?

Yeah, and as we walked into Astor Hall my friend nearly bumped into him. You were giving him a tour of the library.
Yes, we took him around, but we did something very particular. With many of our guests, I take them to special collections. And in the case of Werner, we took him to the Manuscripts Division and he saw some late nineteenth early 20th century photography of death row inmates. And underneath [the photographs] the curator had written “successful,” or “very successful,” in terms of execution. And we have some extraordinary pictures of Werner looking over those photos with sheer and utter intensity.

I don’t consider this at all a venue. It’s a storehouse of knowledge. People need to know that when they are in the Celeste Bartos Forum that it’s a place where above them is this amazing reading room and 52 million items in this library. Seven floors. One should be inspired and feel it.

Must be a great place to work.
It’s not chopped liver.

How did you end up here?
Well, they found me.

While you were at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art?
My goodness, you know a few things. Yes, I was in Los Angeles. I founded something called the Institute for Arts and Cultures, creating havoc in a way that basically set me up for here. The then-president came out to LA and said that he wanted me to “oxygenate” the library.

So the NYPL brought you out here to breathe life into this institution.
Yeah, to oxygenate the library. I often say my goal here is to make the lions roar and to make a heavy institution levitate. It’s really to animate the shelves, to make people understand that the library is not just a repository of books. Alfred North Whitehead, in his book “The Aims of Education” talks about inert ideas and the whole notion of culture is that ideas are not inert. They are alive. But here it’s not unlike a very large conversation. Imagine if all these books started to talk to each other.

Is that your goal? To translate this wealth of knowledge to your audience?
Yeah, it’s to make the audience feel that nearly nothing as quite as exciting as thinking and reading. There’s really a great pleasure in being together in a room. I think particularly in our day and age, when we spend so much time in front of screens and home pages, but we don’t necessarily have homes, I think it’s important to bring people together in room and have communal experience. It’s another form of ritual. Ever since people have been able to talk to each other, they’ve congregated.

Your discussions require a great deal of focus for a few hours. In this day and age people are more inclined to absorb information in short, quick bursts. Being the director, are you trying to remarry people’s interest in coming to the library, sitting down, and exploring things on their own?
There are many things in your question. One of the things it implies is the notion that you go down to the Celeste Bartos Forum and you have an experience. Hopefully with a Hegelian frame of mind. You graduate to the idea and you go upstairs to the reading room and you go and explore the various ideas that were expressed in the conversation. So there is an idea, very strong here, of being in a place for these ideas to come together in some form or fashion, to be able to enable people to know that these ideas are readily available to them. Remember what Werner says to his students at the Rogue Film School: “Read, read, read, read, read.” That is his motto. Because if you don’t read, the world is lost on you.

There’s also a trust in the intelligence of the public. Famously enough, Oscar Wilde said “Either you make the art popular or the people artistic.” I personally believe that a public can enjoy two hours of sustained conversation. The notion that we’ve all been dumbed down and can only stand a three minute clip is not right. For example, Werner and I have been invited down to Iceland and will probably go next summer. One condition under which Werner said he will accept is if we can do a five hour conversation! And you laugh, but I think he will do it. And certainly I will.

In a way I’m asking from the public the most precious commodity that anybody has, which is time. And I’m somehow trusting that 120 minutes is not too much. Therefore, I’m also believing that the public is very eager and strives towards knowledge, wants to know. Curators of public curiosity sometimes don’t think that the public is curious. I actually think they are and I think they can be curious about death row, about an artist talking about Japan, they can be curious about Jesmyn Ward, they can be curious about a great chef talking. So part of my goal is also to create a program that is not predictable where people from all walks of life come. And that is very important.

How many hours a day do you spend reading?
Twenty-eight, on average.

Do you ever get intimidated by knowledge?
I’m intimidated by children.

I watched your new show [The Paul Holdengraber Show], and during one episode with David Chang you said—and I don’t know how serious you were—that you strongly believe that “people don’t make sense.”
I am very serious! It’s funny you should bring that up. This is something I dearly, deeply believe in. I don’t think we make sense. We are Jean-Jacques Rousseau, sending our five children to the Assistance Publique and we are writing the great treatise on education. We are speaking about the importance of marriage and we’re the great philanderer. Our tastes are catholic and divergent, and sometimes you see one side of a human being, and there’s a whole other side that seems different and when you learn about it you’re so surprised, but you’re surprised only because you think that human beings are—

Rational.
Rational, yeah.

Libraries can also intimidate people. Is that something you think about? That someone could walk in and be overwhelmed by the scope of the library?
I do, and I actually am not sure, to tell you the truth, that that’s such a great thing if it stops there. In other words, again to invoke Hegel, when you come in this building and you go to Astor Hall, you think—

“How am I going to get through all of this?”
Yeah, and another thing to think about is, not only how am I going to get through all of this, but what is there to find here? You arrive here at the bottom of the stairs and you don’t see what’s here, you don’t know where you are. I see a lot of people come and leave because they are so amazed by it.


When you came here in 2004, what was missing from the library?
I think what I was brought here for was… one way of adding a public engagement forum. A way in which the library could not only invite the usual suspects, but bring people from all walks of life to discuss, and debate, and converse. I think the intimidation, what we were talking about before, is something I’ve been striving to rectify. It’s not just me. There are so many people at the library who are striving to make this institution be more alive. For me the word “public” in New York Public Library is the most important word. Within twenty minutes of arriving at the library you can go up into the special collection and have access to “Leaves of Grass” by Walt Whitman. We have the drawings of William Blake, we have Virginia Woolf’s manuscripts, we have Charles Dickens’ pen. When I interviewed Patti Smith she had in her hands “A Room of One’s Own”, she had in her hands journals of George Eliot.

It’s in your hands. The memory of the world is there, and it’s ours. You have to think about it. If you go to France you have to have 27 letters before you get to see such and such manuscript. Here it’s open. This is the Ellis Island of New York. If you think of it, 100 years ago all the immigrants came to the library because it was a warm place to sit, but also because in a way it reminded them of home. You know, it reminded them of the great coffee shops they knew. I think that’s really important. In some way that great moment in Vienna in 1900 where intellectuals from all walks of life came together—that’s what I want to create.

Kind of rekindling the tradition of oratory discussion.
Yes, very much so.

Lane Koivu

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12/03/2012

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Guest Interview n° 37: Alexandra Verschueren

Born in Antwerp, Belgium, designer Alexandra Verschueren rose to prominence when being awarded Le Grand Prix at Festival d’Hyères in 2010 for her innovative Medium-collection featuring garments of felted and starched wool treated to look like paper. Today, Alexandra’s work is less conceptual but more thought-provoking than ever.

You grew up in the city of The Antwerp Six and many other influential designers, how has that heritage affected you and your work?
I started to be aware of it when I was 12 years old, in the 90’s, and I think it definitely influenced me in a way. It always felt kind of weird to have six such great designers, since Belgium is such a small country.

When you studied craftsmanship at The Royal Academy of Fine Arts, did the Belgian design tradition have a great influence over your education?
Walter Van Beirendonck (The Antwerp Six) was actually one of my teachers in the third year. But we were never allowed to look at other designers in that school, you never ever reference another designer. You’re supposed to find your own voice. In my final year I was working with paper and I had this idea to push garments flat, but my pattern-making teacher just said “Margiela has already done that”.

You were awarded Le Grand Prix at the Hyères festival in 2010, that must have been quite an experience.
I’ll never forget that. I graduated in 2009, and I went to New York to work for Derek Lam and Proenza Schouler, but the transition from being in the school’s artistic bubble to being in the commercial reality of fashion in New York was hard, so for me Hyères made the transition smoother. It opened so many doors; suddenly everyone knows your name, even if it’s hard to pronounce (laughs). I even got two letters from the French minister of culture.

And what happened afterwards?
I realized that my moment had come; it was the perfect timing to start the label. I still don’t feel completely ready, that’s why I do such small low-key collections. Many people think my work is simpler now, but there’s a more focused idea behind it. It’s about learning how to make a garment people will feel beautiful in. Very often fashion is all about image, making an impression. My collections are not about making disposable images, but to learn how to build a lasting one.

It sounds like you have a profound respect for the actual craftsmanship.
Yes, I just want to take my time, and show my respect for the métier. We once had a workshop with Dries Van Noten. He told us that his grandfather had this shop where he turned suits inside out for people. When they were worn out, he just turned them, rebuilt them, and they were like new again. That struck me as something that’s now fading away, but for me it’s very important to understand how a garment is constructed.

How has your working technique evolved since you began designing?
The trial process has become important, sometimes I just change a whole garment. Some I’ve redone like 5 or 6 times. I used to be very stuck with ideas of how I wanted it; I thought I was very consequent. Before it was more about the concept, since no one would actually wear the garment anyway. But when I started making wearable clothing I became more free. Now when something’s not working, I try to solve it. It’s more about the process.

How would you describe your current idiom and design?
I’m 24, so there’s still a lot to learn and I’m still figuring things out. The quality is very important for me. The sweatshirt fabric I used for my current collection is made with a machine that goes 10 times slower than a mass-production one, there’s no tension on the thread so the shirt stays softer for a much longer time. I like boyish things. In school when I was drawing collections people used to say, “Oh, you’re making a men’s collection…”

What’s behind your universe, what inspires you to create?
Words sometimes inspire me, maybe because my parents are linguists. The last collection was called “Shift”. For me, it was a very important word at the time, because it was about a transition, and I had a lot of overlapping details in my clothes. So it was about overlapping and shifting from one thing to another and evolving. I can be inspired by a detail I see on a garment, but never by a designer.

What are your goals for the near future?
I hope I can expand the collection, to sell enough to survive. If a job opportunity appeared, I wouldn’t turn it down. I just want to be able to have a nice presentation of my clothes, and I’d be happy to see more people wearing them. I’d love to be based in Paris. I love New York as well, but I’m too European to live in The States, I feel too unpolished.

Petsy von Köhler – Photos Fred Aufray

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24/02/2012

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Guest Interview n° 36: Christine Onorati

Independent bookstores are few and far between these days, with online retailers like eBay and Amazon selling canonized works directly to your doorstep for a fraction of the price. So what makes them tick, and how do they manage to stick around? We sat down with Christine Onorati, the founder of WORD, the immensely popular and influential cultural epicenter in Greenpoint, to find out why. We discussed the increasingly diverse role independent retailers have to play in an era when your favorite magazine, op-ed, or piece of literature is just a click away.

WORD opened in March of 2007. How did it begin?

I had a bookstore before in Long Island. I closed it and I moved here. It was a little bit smaller used book store called the BOUNDRY bookshop. But the real reason is because we live here. We love it here. My husband and I moved to the neighborhood in 2006, and we moved the store here in 2007. It didn’t come out of nowhere. We had a store, but we just wanted to move it to Brooklyn, where people actually like bookstores. [Laughs]

WORD is nearly as much of a venue as it is a bookshop, and hosts a variety of events atypical for a bookstore. You don’t have all that many traditional readings. How do you go about booking events?
[We] brainstorm what we think will be a good event. Our philosophy is that there are so many events happening at any given time in New York City that we always try to make them be a little special. Maybe it’s a conversation, maybe it’s a party, maybe it’s the author being interviewed by somebody interesting. We try to stay away from straightforward, single authors standing on stage and reading fiction.

How do you manage to stay viable with online retailers, such as Amazon, that offer books at a fraction of the price? 

That’s a good thought―that we do stay viable. [Laughs] It’s hard. We always say we don’t look at Amazon as our competition because we can’t compete with Amazon. They sell books cheaper than what we buy them for. I hate bashing Amazon too much, but they don’t care about books. They use books to get people onto their website to buy other things. Because they sell them as loss leaders, they don’t have any interest in the world of books, so if people are just looking at price, it’s very hard. Books are sold everywhere, and people can get books very easily in many different places. It’s not enough to just have a place where you put books on the shelf―you really have to be a place where you want people to feel a part of it, more of a community of people who like the same stuff.

And WORD curbs to their tastes a little bit more.

Yeah, and it takes a while to build that relationship. We’ve been here for five years and we’ve been doing a pretty good job. We want to be a place where the neighborhood wants to come and feel comfortable. We never judge people. We’re happy to order anything. That’s the difference―people want to come here and be part of something. They want to really be part of it. And we want to make people feel very included in the store, as opposed to just ordering something online.

In addition to a successful bookstore, WORD has over the years become a popular community center for people with common interests and desires, literary and otherwise. Was this always your intention?

Like I said, you can buy books anywhere, so I really feel like if a neighborhood can’t support a bookstore it really can’t exist. I don’t really look too much for people from a million different towns to come and support us. It ultimately has to be a Greenpoint store. This is where we are, and I think we’ve found a place where people like us. I think we have to be a reflection of the community. The customers are a part of the store, they can come here and ask for anything they need, get their gifts here. I never want to be a kind of book store that makes people feel like they’re not cool enough to shop here.

What are your plans for the future?

To keep doing what we’re doing. I have no idea what the future of bookstores will be. It’s really bleak. All I know is that we are growing slowly every year, people like buying books here. I don’t really see a future where people are going to stop wanting books, but some people say that’s the case, and if that’s the case, I guess we won’t be around forever. I just don’t ever see books dying here. People like books too much to give them up.

Lane Koivu – Images courtesy of Christine Onorati

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